The rock churches of Lalibela are as different from ordinary buildings as an igloo is from a skyscraper. They were excavated, not constructed and painstakingly chiseled out of solid granite.
Rose red in color, monolithic and subterranean, they are a place of pilgrimage for the local Ethiopian people and serve an attraction which pulls in thousands of visitors from around the world.
Most visitors to Ethiopia agree that a vacation here is not complete without a trip to Lalibela, the thirteenth-century stronghold of King Lalibela.
Where is Lalibela?
Lalibela was once the thriving capital city of a medieval dynasty. The passing of time has reduced it from a royal stronghold to a village, shrouded in mystery, where visitors can sense the desire for seclusion and protection that Ethiopians of past centuries wanted to have from invading Muslim forces.
From the road, Lalibela is almost invisible against a horizon dominated by a 4 200 metre high mountain peak, Mount Abuna Joseph.
Found on a natural 2 600 metre rock terrace, it is surrounded on all sides by forbidding mountains in the northern extreme of the modern Ethiopian province of Wollo.
How to Get to Lalibela
Even by today's standards of easy transportation, Lalibela is remote.
Ethiopian Airlines fly once daily from Addis Ababa to Lalibela. Prices start at £127.40 for a return flight, including taxes, prices increase in peak season.
There is a daily bus from Addis-Ababa. The trip takes two days, stopping overnight at a town called Dessie. Although long, it is an opportunity to meet the people of Ethiopia and experience life as the locals do.
To get around the town, there are minibuses available and it is perfectly safe to walk around on foot.
What is There to See in Lalibela
The attractions, of course, are the churches, without which Lalibela would just be a rural Ethiopian town with possibly no visitors at all.
The most spectacular church is Bete Giyorgis, located on the western side of the cluster of churches, cut approximately 13 metres down and said to be the best preserved church of them all.
Of the northern group, across the main road from St. George, the most notable church is Beta Medhane Alem, believed to be the largest monolithic church in the world.
Bete Medhane Alem is linked by walkways and tunnels to Bete Maryam, possibly the oldest of the churches and Bete Golgotha, known for its arts and said to contain the tomb of King Lalibela.
The Eastern group consists of four chuches, among which are:
- Bete Amanuel which was possibly a royal chapel,
- Bete Merkorios, said to be a former prison
- Bete Gabriel-Rufael which was probably a former royal palace, linked to a religious bakery.
Hotels Lalibela
Good hotels in Lalibela are available. There are sometimes problems with electricity and water, but these cuts do not usually last long and staff do what they can to make guests comfortable.
The Asheten Hotel is found near the bus station, is quiet and clean with hot showers and prices are usually negotiable.
The Mountain View Hotel with comfortable rooms, good meals and spectacular mountain views.
The Seven Olives Hotel, is found right next to the bus station with hot showers, good service and reasonable prices.
There also reputable and clean bed and breakfasts available in the town.
Source:
The Mountains of Rasselas, Thomas Pakenham, Pages 146 - 168, Published by Weidenfeld & Nicolson, 1998
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Fleur Hupston - Fleur Hupston is a professional freelance writer based in Botswana, Southern Africa. From this unique perspective, she writes travel ...
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